| :: Ama Dablam North West 6,812m. Expedition
Ama Dablam Inforamtion:
Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need 4500 meter fixed rope. For those who seek less popular routes, Ama Dablam has wealth of other clamed and untried possibilities. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber climbed the North Ridge, which has since been repeated at least three times.
It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.
Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. The day this photo was taken a huge section of the Dablam peeled away, blasting the whole of the West Face. (Alex Mc Nab).
(Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Tramserku. ( Bill O'Connor)
Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and flutings, where the ridge peters out against the South-West Ridge. The following month saw another accomplished alpine-style ascent, this time of the North-East Face. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.
The danger was minimised by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.
Ama Dablam North West Expedition
Fixed Departure
28 September 2010
Itinerary:
25 September 2010 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
26 September 2010 Day 02: Kathmandu
27 September 2010 Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
28 September 2010 Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840) and trek to Phakding (2610) - Camp or Lodge
29 September 2010 Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Camp or Lodge
30 September 2010 Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche Monastery (3860) Lodge
01 October 2010 Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche (4410) camp or Lodge
02 October 2010 Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge Base Camp (5200)
03 - 22 October 2010 Day 09-25: Acclimatization/Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
23 Oct. 2010 Day 26: Ama Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazar
25 Oct. 2010 Day 27: Namche - Lukla - Lodge
26 Oct. 2010 Day 28: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
27 Oct. 2010 Day 29: Kathmandu
28 Oct. 2010 Day 30: Final Departure
Cost: Group join basis (Group size minimum 6 person)
5 - 7 Persons, Per Person USD 3000.00
8 - 12 Persons, Per Person USD 2500.00
13 - 15 Persons, Per Person USD 2300.00
Per climbing Sherpa USD 2000.00
Cost includes
1. 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (3 star)
2. Permit fee of Ama Dablam 6812m. Expedition
3. Food for Trekking and expedition period
4. Expedition crew: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
5. Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
6. Kathmandu –Lukla – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG per member
7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
9. tent for 1 person – 1 tent
10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
12. Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator (If use, you have to pay)
13. Well come dinner
Cost not includes
1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
3. Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
5. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
6. Walki Takie permit & personal satellite phone permit
7. Oxygen & Mask –regulator for the expedition
8. Personal expenses
9. Bar Bills & beverage
10. Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.
Note: If each climbing member have more than 50 KG for load and they have to pay extra porter as well as cargo.
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